Prekom

• Porsche 997 MK1 Carrera 2 3.6L 2005-08
• Porsche 997 MK1 Carrera 2S 3.8L 2005-08
• Porsche 997 MK1 Carrera 4 3.6L 2005-08
• Porsche 997 MK1 Carrera 4S 3.8L 2005-08
• Porsche 997 MKII Carrera C2 3.6L 2009-12
• Porsche 997 MKII Carrera C4 3.6L 2009-12
• Porsche 997 MKII Carrera C2S 3.8L 2009-12
• Porsche 997 MKII Carrera C4S 3.8L 2009-12
• Porsche Boxster 987 2.7L 2005 -08/08
• Porsche Boxster 987 S 3.2/3.4L 2005-08/08
• Porsche Boxster 987 MKII 2.9L 2009-2012
• Porsche Boxster S 987 MKII 3.4L 2009-2012
• Porsche Cayman 2.7L 987C 2006-08
• Porsche Cayman S 3.4L 987C 2005-08
• Porsche Cayman 2.9L 987C MKII 2009-12
• Porsche Cayman S / R 3.4L 987C MKII 2009-12

• Control arm bushes are the flexible/thrust-interface between the suspension control arm (wishbone) and the subframe or chassis mounting point. They allow the arm to pivot as the wheel moves up/down, and absorb vibration and noise while keeping the arm location accurate.
• Over time the factory rubber bushes compress, distort, crack or become loose — this leads to excess play in the control arm, loss of alignment precision, drift in geometry, and degraded handling.
• The Prekom set replaces these bushes, restoring the correct pivot location, reducing unwanted movement, improving consistency of alignment under load (cornering, braking), and enhancing feel and feedback of the front suspension.

• Steering feel has degraded, especially front-end feel: e.g., front wheels feel vague, steering returns less precisely, or there’s more wander than before.
  
• Uneven or accelerated tyre wear on front tyres: if the control arm moves under load, alignment changes or adverse camber/caster shifts can wear tyres.
  
• Clunks or knocks from the front suspension when going over bumps: worn bushes can allow metal-on-metal contact or abrupt arm movement.
  
• Front suspension alignment cannot be held, or you repeatedly struggle to set correct alignment — a likely indicator of worn bushes.
  
• Inspection reveals bush deterioration: Cracked rubber, visible excessive play in the arm, or the bush body separated from its shell are clear signs.
  
  

• Porsche 911 1974-1977 2.7L / 1976-77 3.0 Carrera
• Porsche 911 1978-1983 3.0L / SC
• Porsche 911 1984-1986 3.2L
• Porsche 911 1987-1989 3.2L G50
• Porsche 911 1975-1977 3.0L Turbo (930)
• Porsche 911 1978-1989 3.3L Turbo (930)

• The ball joint sits in the lower portion of the front suspension A-arm (wishbone) and provides the pivotal interface between the A-arm and the steering knuckle/hub.
• It allows controlled articulation (up/down movement of A-arm, steering motion) while keeping the hub and suspension geometry correct (camber, toe, caster).
• Because it’s a replacement for the “RS A-arm ball joint”, when worn or loose it can degrade handling, alignment, tire wear, and front-end feel.
• In essence ensures the front suspension remains tight, precise and responsive.

Symptoms Of Wear Or When To Replace:

• Clunking or knocking noises from the front suspension during cornering, over bumps, or when steering — ball joints with internal play can cause these.
  
• Uneven or excessive tyre wear on the inside or outside of the front tyres — worn ball joints allow geometry to drift under load.
  
• Loose or vague steering feel, wandering front end or less precise turn-in — again typically linked to suspension joint play.
  
• Visible rubber boot damage, grease leakage or rust around the ball joint — older 911 RS suspension components may have aged.
  
  

• Restores safety & handling precision: On a high-performance classic like the Porsche 911 RS, the front suspension must be tight and accurate — a worn ball joint undermines that.
  
• Maintains correct geometry: Fresh joints help keep camber, toe and caster stable under load — vital for handling balance and tyre life.
  
• Prevents further damage: A failing ball joint can lead to increased stress on tyres, A-arms, bearings and may lead to more costly front-end repairs.

• Porsche 924 2.0L 1980-85
• Porsche 924 Turbo 2.0L 1979-81
• Porsche 924 Turbo 2.0L 1982-84
• Porsche 924 Carrera GT 2.0L 1981
• Porsche 924 Carrera GTS 2.0L 1982
• Porsche 944 2.5L 8V 1982-87

• In the torsion-bar rear suspension of these vehicles, the torsion bars anchor into spring plates. These spring plates mount to the axle / housing and transmit torsional load into the chassis.
• The spring plates also allow indexing of torsion bar preload and set ride height (among other geometry considerations). By using adjustable spring plates, you gain more flexibility to fine-tune ride height and corner balance without removing the entire torsion bar or axle.
• A good adjustable set ensures that the rear suspension’s torsion bars, spring plates and bushings work together properly so that the rear axle remains located, ride height remains correct, geometry remains stable, and the car handles as intended.

• Rear ride height issues — one side lower or higher than the other, or difficulty achieving correct height, which can be due to worn or non-adjustable plates limiting the adjustment range.
  
• Rear handling instability — e.g., vague rear end, geometry shift under load, degraded cornering feel, which may result from worn or inadequate mounting of the torsion bar ends.
  
• Excessive play or movement at the spring plate mount: the plate may be warped, the bushings collapsed or the indexing mechanism worn, leading to loss of precision.
  
• Previously lowered or modified suspension — if you’ve changed springs, lowered the car, or altered ride height, the stock spring plates may not offer the adjustment you need; an adjustable set is beneficial.
  
• Visual inspection: bushings may appear deformed, cracks or corrosion present on plate, plate cover area not concentric around torsion-bar end, or the mounting bolts are difficult/risky to remove due to age/corrosion. (General wear symptoms from spring plate bush kit commentary)

• Geometry and ride height control: The rear spring plates are a critical mount point for the torsion bars and ultimately influence ride height, axle location and suspension geometry. Upgrading or replacing them restores full adjustment capability.
  
• Handling performance: If plates are worn or non-adjustable, you lose precision in tuning ride height or preload, which can degrade handling (especially in rear-heavy or performance-modified cars). An adjustable set brings that tuning back.
  
• Reduced wear and improved durability: Many OEM plates are decades old; replacing them with modern adjustable units ensures the assembly is fresh, has better materials/finish, and lasts longer.
  
• Modification friendly: If you’ve lowered the car, widened track, changed torsion bars or springs, an adjustable spring plate set offers the extra range needed to achieve correct setup without undue compromise.
  
• Value & restoration quality: For classic 924/944 vehicles, using high-quality adjustable spring plates shows that suspension integrity is addressed — which aids usability, performance and possibly resale.

• Porsche 911 1975-1977 3.0L Turbo (930)
• Porsche 911 1978-1989 3.3L Turbo (930)
• Porsche 914 (1970-1976)

• The track rod (tie rod) connects the steering rack to the steering knuckle/steering arm, allowing the front wheels to respond to steering input. In classic 911/914 cars the standard length is optimised for standard ride height and steering geometry.
• When you lower a vehicle, change front ride height, fit stiffer springs, wider tyres or change front geometry, the original tie rod length may no longer maintain correct rod end engagement, steering rack to knuckle alignment, or sufficient thread engagement for safe mounting.
• An increased-length track rod gives extra adjustment range and corrects for the altered vertical/horizontal geometry by providing extra length, which helps maintain correct steering geometry, avoid binding, ensure full thread engagement, and reduce bump-steer or misalignment under load.
  
• Specifically the +38 mm version provides considerably more length than standard, giving more flexibility for extreme lowering or wide tyres/modified front hubs.

• After lowering the front ride height significantly, the original tie rods are too short (leading to lack of adjustment, bound joints, or risk of insufficient thread engagement).
• Steering geometry issues such as bump-steer, uneven tyre wear, or altered steering feel (e.g., the front wheels feel unstable, wander, or kick in bumps) – these can be caused by improper tie-rod length relative to wheel/knuckle geometry.
  
• Visual inspection: the tie-rod ends are near the limit of adjustment (either fully extended or fully retracted), or the threads of the original rods are nearing their limit.
• You are running a performance setup (wider tyres, different hubs, lowered suspension) where the standard rod length restricts your alignment or fine-tuning.
• If one side of the front geometry is different (e.g., due to camber adjustment or lowered on one side) and standard rods don’t allow symmetric correction.

• Preserves steering geometry: With modified suspension or ride height, correct rod length is essential to maintain proper steering rack to knuckle relationship, avoid undue forces, ensure proper articulation and reduce wear on joints.
  
• Improves safety and precision: Ensuring that the tie-rod ends have sufficient thread engagement and correct length helps avoid failure or undesirable steering behaviour under load.
  
• Supports performance modifications: If you’ve lowered the car, increased front negative camber, fitted wider tyres or track-prepared it, the standard rods often become a compromise — an increased-length rod restores capacity and tuning range.
  
• Reduces bump-steer/inconsistent behaviour: By allowing correct geometry under lowered height, the longer rod helps reduce unintended toe change under suspension movement, improving steadiness.
  
• Restoration/fitment: For highly modified or custom builds (wheels, track width, hub offsets) this rod gives the flexibility to adapt without resorting to custom rod making.

• Porsche 911 1978-1983 3.0L / SC
• Porsche 911 1984-1986 3.2L
• Porsche 911 1987-1989 3.2L G50
• Porsche 911 1978-1989 3.3L Turbo (930)

• The rear drop links connect the rear anti-roll bar (stabiliser bar) to the rear suspension arms/axle. When the car corners, the anti-roll bar helps keep the body flatter by transferring load between wheels; the linkage must be rigid and responsive for full effect.
• By increasing the rubber hardness in the bushes by 30 % over standard, the link is less prone to flex, deformation or movement under load. This means the stabiliser bar engages more effectively, quicker and with less lost motion.
• The upgrade therefore yields sharper rear-end response, less body roll, better handling stability, particularly under spirited driving or track use.

• You experience clunking or knocking noises from the rear suspension when going over bumps or during cornering — typical of worn drop link joints or flexible bushes.
  
• The car displays excess rear body roll, or the rear end feels less controlled in transitions — possibly the stabiliser bar isn’t transmitting force effectively due to soft/link compliance.
  
• You’ve upgraded other components (e.g., stronger springs, larger tyres, lowered ride height) but the rear still doesn’t feel tight — the stock links may be the weak link.
• The existing links have rubber bushes that are cracked, collapsed, excessively soft or you detect play in the link.
• Visual inspection of the rear links shows degraded bushings, movement under load, or the mounts appear worn.

• Handling precision: With the stiffer bushes, the drop links provide a firmer connection, meaning the stabiliser bar is engaged earlier and more completely — improving turn-in, chassis balance and cornering feel.
• Complements suspension upgrades: If the rest of the suspension has been improved (e.g., springs, dampers, sway bar) then a stronger link makes sure the stabiliser bar isn’t held back by weak link hardware.
• Longevity and durability: The upgrade is likely to resist wear, deformation and fatigue better than standard softer bushings, thus maintaining performance over time.
• Value and driving enjoyment: For performance-oriented or track-use cars, the handling benefit is real. Even for road use, more solid links reduce movement, improve feedback and instil driver confidence.
• Prevents secondary issues: Poor drop links can lead to uneven tyre wear, shifting geometry or looseness — upgrading helps avoid these costly or dangerous side-effects.

• The front anti-roll bar (sway bar) is a component that helps to reduce body roll during cornering by transferring load from one side of the suspension to the other.
• The drop link is the vertical or angled link that connects the bar to the suspension arm or mount. If the drop link or its bushes are worn, the sway bar cannot effectively transmit load, reducing the stabiliser effect.
• With healthy drop links and bushes, you maintain good front-end stability, sharper turn-in, better chassis balance and even tyre loading.

• Clunking / knocking noise from the front suspension when going over bumps or steering sharply — often due to worn drop links or degraded bushes.
  
• Excessive body roll or vague front end response in corners — if the link is soft or broken, the anti-roll bar may be less effective.
  
• Uneven front tyre wear or misalignment issues — worn links permit more movement, shifting geometry under load.
  
• Visual wear: the drop link appears bent, its mounting bush is cracked or the assembly moves excessively by hand.
  
  

• Replacing worn drop links restores the anti-roll bar’s ability to function correctly — improving handling precision, reducing body roll and stabilising chassis behaviour.
• It helps the rest of your suspension work properly: if springs, dampers or tyres have been upgraded but the links are worn, the gains may not be fully realised.
• From a maintenance and value perspective: worn links and bushes can lead to additional stresses (on arms, bushes, mounts) and knock-on wear. Replacing this part is preventative.
• For driving enjoyment: when the link + bushings are sound, the car feels tighter, more responsive and more confident — especially during dynamic driving or spirited use.